After having seen photos and read disasterous reports regarding the road conditions in Cambodia, I had mixed feelings regarding the road ahead. I imagined a South-East Asian version of Bolivia. To my great surprise, the road has been recently redone, and is immaculate: hardshoulder, no potholes and infrequent traffic. However, the rules of the road have changed dramatically from Thailand and are exhausting! Right hand side cycling; cars, trucks, buses, motorbikes beep constantly; drivers overtake whenever they feel like it; and cyclists are not a priority. Needless to say, the rising of the middle finger has become quite a regular occurance, as drivers coming from the opposite direction charge me off the road. Ironically, my gutt feeling prefers this wild behaviour to the more calm, controlled and behaved Thai drivers; for it makes me feel that everything is possible here and that the no problem I heard so frequently in South America is alive and vibrant in these parts.
Given that pretty much all the roads leading off the main artery are gritty tracks, the hardshoulder hosts a sprinkling of mud and soil. As rain began to spill down from the heavens, the mud was back-lashed all over me, transforming my apprearance into that of an absolute wild woman. By the time I arrived into the town of Sisophon, after dark, I had mud into my ears!
Sisophon was a dead town that Sunday evening, the only place open to eat had a stage, with a backdrop depicting New York, strobe lights flashing and girls clad in tight shiny skirts singing. Unlike what you’re probably thinking, it was no strip joint, but a fancy restaurant in town whose specialty is a delicious seafood tom yam soup.
Having read up on Battambang, Cambodia’s second largest city adorned with French architecture, I decided to veer south off the main road leading to Siem Reap, home to Angor Wat. Contrary to Vientianne, (I was expecting the cities share similarities), Battambang is a vibrant and hectic city with motorbikes zooming around the place, people everywhere going about various businesses, and lovely tuk-tuk drivers trailing tourists simply for a chat!
In addition to visiting this city, a 6hr boat trip through floating villages up to Siem Reap was a huge incentive. Bright and early this morning, a small group of us boarded a slow motor boat that weaved its way first along the river bed, then through a combination of paddies and marsh land; and finally we cut across the north western corner of the lake Tonle Sap which lies to the south of Siam Reap. Throughout the boat trip, locals were observed fishing and washing in the river; kids went crazy over waving to us; and beautiful floating villages were traversed.
Unlike the Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca which consist of floating islands hosting a cluster of reed houses, these floating villages include a cluster of individual floating houses, built from wood. All lie on a single storey, respond to the movement of the river, have hammocks swinging inside, open kitchens, simple decorations and a simple blue and white wooden boat which serves as a means of transport.
Pulling into the terrain-vague used as a dockland 10km outside Siem Reap, the boat was pounced upon (before docking) by tuk-tuk drivers eager to get fresh buisness from the tourists on board. I was glad to be left alone to set the bike up for a beautiful cycle into town, along a densely populated yet lush road: probably the most beautiful road cycled as of yet on this trip.
